HTP: Yu Jing bases

Quick color reference for myself when I add more models to my Yu JIng.

Masking products!

Step 1. Winsor Newton applied first. I use a metal dental tool I found at the local hardware store. The ponit is fine so I can make sure the gloss is covering all the way to the feet without actually touching the feet. Cover the model at least halfway to avoid paint splatter ruining your paint job.

Step 2. Once dry, apply a liquid latex over the liquid mask. This will make it easier to pull off the liquid mask because the latex will be one solid piece.  I've had no problems getting masking off now that i'm putting liquid latex over it. (as seen above)

 Step 3. base the model with Minitaire D6-143 Blood Stain Mud.

Step 4. Making sure not to cover all the brown so you leave a shadow. Apply Minitaire D6-106 Desolated Beach.

Step 5. Remove the mask, and apply black to the edge of the base.
Step 5.5 paint the cement with the same Dark Grey I always use, and the metal with Citadel Ironbreaker.

Step 6. I used some of the basing material I had left over from 40k to add flat stones to the bases. mixed in with Vallejo Mat varnish, they help add variety and also seal the paint this far.

Step 7. Mix Secret Weapon, Clay Brown, with water to a running consistency. you'll still get pigment because it'll settle in the bottom, but you don't want stludge. you're going to cover the entire base with this. If you add to much you can always go back and remove it with a wet brush.

Pre wash:

 Post wash:

Step 8. Once it's dry, you can use a wet brush to remove any place that had to much weathering pigment. I wanted the tiles to look cleaner so I took most of the pigment off. 

Step 9. For bases with asphalt I painted in Dark Grey (as mentioned above) and washed with Secret Weapon 'Concrete wash.' After this is dry I washed the metal with Nuln Oil, then Agrax Earthsade.

Step 10. Mix Secret Weapon 'Dark Earth' with water just like the clay, but thin it down significantly more. We're not trying to fill cracks like before.  Spread this after everything has dried over the whole base. Try to help the pigment pool up in the edges of the man hole covers and places you'd like extra dirt.

 In order of appearence:

 Some quick examples of the finished bases. ready to be sealed with Army Painter Mat Varnish. You can see better pictures on my Guija, and Yan Huo posts.

HTP:Yu Jing Guns

Another style I use for painting guns. the nomads are a bit to clean. With my yu jing I went for a harder contrast and more 'scratching' to highlight the weapon. I thought about it as crosshatching but for light instead of shadow. (this is a lot more apparent on the yan huo's weapons and backpack)

 Step 1. Cover the weapon with Vallejo Model Color 70.994 Dark Grey

Step 2. Vallejo Model Wash 76.517 Dark Grey the whole weapon.

Step 3. Adding the Dark Grey in a glaze now I cover the flatter parts of the weapon. Not covering up any flat space entirely. Leaving the wash covered dark grey on at least the bottom half of all flat parts of the gun. 

Step 4. Mixing Game Color 72.050 Cold Grey with Dark Grey 1:1 I highlight the very tops of each panel and part of the gun. (on the barrel I use 100% cold grey to have it stand out. I did this on the other combi rifles but its not pictured here)

Step 5. Using Game Color 72.046 Ghost Grey I make an extreme highlight and crosshatch scratches over the panels of the gun. on this monk I didn't thin down the paint as much as I should have. there's better examples below. 

And you're done! 

(I'll add pictures of the other example's when I take some better pictures.)

Yu Jing: Oriental Skin

The Ratio's aren't quite a science. However adding Vallejloo Game Color 72.042 Parasite Brown to a mix of Game Color 72.100 rosy flesh made a very nice base for an oriental skin tone. Using my wet pallet to keep the paint nice and dry I covered the face with about 2 coats and then washed with Citadel Reikland FleshShade.  I covered the face a bit more on the raised areas with the base color. Finishing with a final  highlight of Game Color 72.003 Pale Flesh added to the base color.

Whenever i'm painting skin I make sure to use a wet palette. Last thing you need is the paint starting to dry before you're finished glazing the color on.

(related note: I paint the eyes after the skin. I know a lot of artists prefer to paint them first because they're difficult but with the kolinsky hair brushes I haven't had much issue.)

Here's another example using the yu jing monks. (The casts on the heads where hit or miss. Two came out okay and the others came out poorly.)

HTP: Nomad Guns

Simple gun tutorial on how I paint my Nomad's guns.

1. Coat the gun with Vallejo 70.994 Dark Grey

2. Wash the gun with Vallejo wash 76.517 Dark Grey (ha, theme)

3. Go over the gun again with Vallejo's Dark Grey

4. With a 1:1 ratio mix Vallejo Dark Grey with 72.050 Cold Grey.  You can use strait cold grey on certain spots to make a more extreme highlight.

Finished: Guija and Yan Huo

Today I finished taking pictures of my Yan Huo and Guija. Photography is a whole different animal then what I'm use to, but i'm proud of how they came out

I also started a new deviant art page so I can keep a gallery of my painted models in one place. :)

dicepoolplays.deviantart.com

HTP: Yan Huo Orange

The army of the rising sun's most powerful Heavy Infantry is an appropriate orange yellow. Any forces coming at you will know this is the last light they'll ever see as their HMC spins up.

Started priming  the model with Vallejo Black Primer 73.602 over the entire model. Followed by priming the model from a 45° angle making sure to leave black in the bottom and shadows.  

(I only have one light for my airbrush so the shadows are stronger then they are on the actual model)

Next you'll airbrush the entire model with Vallejo Hot Orange 72.709 covering everything in 3 thin coats. 

Spraying from the 45° angle, airbrush the top of all the armor plates you want to be orange/yellow with Vallejo Orange Fire 72.708.  This  may take a few coats to get a good shaded orange. don't rush. 

In very thin layers, add Vallejo Sun Yellow 72.706 to the highest points in the armor.

The effect is more obvious on my Guija, you can see the slight gradient from the orange fire into the sun yellow. 

Now the fun part, go ahead and airbrush the highlights with Vallejo Dead White 72.701 it's easier on the tag and looks phenomenal after the next step. 

Airbrushing over all the white parts of the model go over it again with Vallejo Sun Yellow 72.706. the tag has more area so the effect is easier to see. 

With a wet pallet, I mix Vallejo Sand yellow 70.916 1:1 with water. Go over the edges of the armor with this mixture and highlight your miniature. 

I used Minitaire D6-199 Gloss Coat because its the airbrush gloss coat I have. but any thin gloss you can airbrush is fine. I don't recommend brushing the gloss on because it can be too thick. 

Allow enough time for the gloss to dry completely, I leave it for at least a few hours. Using Vallejo wash Oxide Rust 76.506 paint the cracks in the model to give additional shading. 

Once the wash is completely dry you'll seal the model again with Vallejo Mat Varnish 70.520.

From here the yellow is complete! 

HTP: Nomads, start to finish.

Nomads!

These are the colors and techniques I used to paint my Nomads.

1. After assembly, airbrush the entire model with Vallejo Surface Primer 73.605 German Red Brown 

2. From the top of the model airbrush with Vallejo model air, 71.003 Scarlet Red . Alternate from directly above to a 45 degree angle making sure to leave the primer visible from the direct front and bottom of the model.

3. I used Minitaire D6-199 Gloss Coat over all the parts that will stay red on the model. Keep in mind when using clear coats that to little is better then to much. try not to spray on areas where you won't be keeping the model red. this will keep another layer from obscuring your detail.

4. Using Vallejo model wash 76.517 Dark Grey, use a fine tip brush and apply the wash into the cracks on the model.  The gloss coat will keep the wash in the cracks.  If you apply to much wash, or it goes outside the lines, use a clean brush to quickly remove the wash and reapply. DO NOT USE INKS FOR THIS STEP. The matte varnish we use to seal the red will re-wet the inks and they will run. ruining your progress.

5. Paint the fabric with Vallejo Model Color 70.836 London Grey.

6. Paint the weapons, and top of the boots with Vallejo Model Color, 70.950 Black.

7. Using Vallejo Model Color 70.941 Burnt Umber to paint the holsters, straps, and boots on the model.  followed by a line highlight of Vallejo Game Color 72.042 Parasite Brown.  (I highlighted after washing all burnt umber with GW's  nuln oil)

8. Using Citadel Shade, Nuln Oil. Go over all the parts of the model painted up to this point that are not red.

9. Go back over the grey's with the London Grey used before. Making sure to leave black in the creases and folds of the fabric.

10. Using a fine detail brush go back over the straps to highlight with the Parasite Brown.

11. Now to seal the model using Vallejo 70.520 Matt Varnish.  make sure you cover any gloss on the faces and hands. trying to paint straight over gloss is a terrible idea.

12. I used a fine detail brush to highlight the reds with Vallejo Game Color 72.009 Hot Orange. applying the mat varnish before this step is important so the highlight will be much easier to apply.

13. Painting Skin I used a very old Reaper color, Rosy Skin. Skin varies so much you can use whatever you'd like. 

14. Wash the skin with Citadel's Ogryn Flesh. (Yay for easy steps!)

15. Make sure your Rosy Skin is thinned and go back over the skin. Making sure to leave the wash in the recesses of the face. 

16. Highlight to finish the skin with Reapers Rosy Highlight. 

17. To start with the glow effect Take P3's Arcane Blue. mix it with water till it's a glaze and paint it over the glowing arm gear or any tecky glowing part of the model.  

18. Mix the Arcane Blue 1/1 with White for the mid tone. I went around the edges of the glowing 'bit' to give it a cool effect. 

19. using mostly White, mix a tiny amount of Arcane Blue and use the glaze to finish off the center of the glowing bit, and hit the edges of the armor. 

there you have it! I'll add more to this article about how to finish the bases with a simple airbrush trick later this week. :)