HTP: Shading yellow with weathering powder

You'll need water, and Secret Weapon Miniatures: Dark Earth. All you do is mix the weathering powder with water, apply it to the model by brush, and finally wipe the dry powder off the model with a wet Qtip. 

Add water to the pigment,

 Stir to get a good consistency. You don't need enough pigment to cover the entire model, but make sure there is a solid fill in the gaps and crevices in the armor. 

 Apply with brush over entire model.

 Just like that. . . 

 Once dry, dip a Qtip in water, and wipe the powder off the model. 

 The Qtip can get 'full' pretty quick, if its not removing pigment just get a new one. I will try to rinse it and see if it helps, but when you start pushing pigment instead of removing it switch swabs. 

 This is after just the weathering powder step v.s. the final marine. 

and you're done! go forth and paint with all the time you've saved!

HTP: Imperial Fist Yellow

Quick and dirty recipe for imperial fists. to start I primed with vallejo grey primer. a base of sun yellow, which is a bit more orange than I cared for.

To brighten up it up to a proper IF yellow. Thin down dead white and lightly cover the model from the top. this will give it an extra highlight and more depth with the sun yellow used before.

After the white going back over with medium yellow gives it a nice bright crisp yellow.

On a gloss base, put the decal on on the shoulder (with micro set) and use micro sol to flatten the decal onto the shoulder pad. for the larger decals I cut the decal in places so that it would lay flatter to start. In about 2 layers of micro sol the decal was nice and flat.

This step is what shades the yellow in a unique, and quick way. The key is to keep the helmet and the gun off. You mix the weathering powder with water and cover the model. Once it's dry you use a Q tip to wash the powder off.  This will shade the model, weather it, and keep the yellow bright.

This ivory is a bit of a pain. I would get a lot on the brush and wipe most of it off on my hand to get the brush to a point and still highlight the model.

Reference for blending for the lenses.

HTP: Yu Jing bases

Quick color reference for myself when I add more models to my Yu JIng.

Masking products!

Step 1. Winsor Newton applied first. I use a metal dental tool I found at the local hardware store. The ponit is fine so I can make sure the gloss is covering all the way to the feet without actually touching the feet. Cover the model at least halfway to avoid paint splatter ruining your paint job.

Step 2. Once dry, apply a liquid latex over the liquid mask. This will make it easier to pull off the liquid mask because the latex will be one solid piece.  I've had no problems getting masking off now that i'm putting liquid latex over it. (as seen above)

 Step 3. base the model with Minitaire D6-143 Blood Stain Mud.

Step 4. Making sure not to cover all the brown so you leave a shadow. Apply Minitaire D6-106 Desolated Beach.

Step 5. Remove the mask, and apply black to the edge of the base.
Step 5.5 paint the cement with the same Dark Grey I always use, and the metal with Citadel Ironbreaker.

Step 6. I used some of the basing material I had left over from 40k to add flat stones to the bases. mixed in with Vallejo Mat varnish, they help add variety and also seal the paint this far.

Step 7. Mix Secret Weapon, Clay Brown, with water to a running consistency. you'll still get pigment because it'll settle in the bottom, but you don't want stludge. you're going to cover the entire base with this. If you add to much you can always go back and remove it with a wet brush.

Pre wash:

 Post wash:

Step 8. Once it's dry, you can use a wet brush to remove any place that had to much weathering pigment. I wanted the tiles to look cleaner so I took most of the pigment off. 

Step 9. For bases with asphalt I painted in Dark Grey (as mentioned above) and washed with Secret Weapon 'Concrete wash.' After this is dry I washed the metal with Nuln Oil, then Agrax Earthsade.

Step 10. Mix Secret Weapon 'Dark Earth' with water just like the clay, but thin it down significantly more. We're not trying to fill cracks like before.  Spread this after everything has dried over the whole base. Try to help the pigment pool up in the edges of the man hole covers and places you'd like extra dirt.

 In order of appearence:

 Some quick examples of the finished bases. ready to be sealed with Army Painter Mat Varnish. You can see better pictures on my Guija, and Yan Huo posts.

HTP:Yu Jing Guns

Another style I use for painting guns. the nomads are a bit to clean. With my yu jing I went for a harder contrast and more 'scratching' to highlight the weapon. I thought about it as crosshatching but for light instead of shadow. (this is a lot more apparent on the yan huo's weapons and backpack)

 Step 1. Cover the weapon with Vallejo Model Color 70.994 Dark Grey

Step 2. Vallejo Model Wash 76.517 Dark Grey the whole weapon.

Step 3. Adding the Dark Grey in a glaze now I cover the flatter parts of the weapon. Not covering up any flat space entirely. Leaving the wash covered dark grey on at least the bottom half of all flat parts of the gun. 

Step 4. Mixing Game Color 72.050 Cold Grey with Dark Grey 1:1 I highlight the very tops of each panel and part of the gun. (on the barrel I use 100% cold grey to have it stand out. I did this on the other combi rifles but its not pictured here)

Step 5. Using Game Color 72.046 Ghost Grey I make an extreme highlight and crosshatch scratches over the panels of the gun. on this monk I didn't thin down the paint as much as I should have. there's better examples below. 

And you're done! 

(I'll add pictures of the other example's when I take some better pictures.)

Yu Jing: Oriental Skin

The Ratio's aren't quite a science. However adding Vallejloo Game Color 72.042 Parasite Brown to a mix of Game Color 72.100 rosy flesh made a very nice base for an oriental skin tone. Using my wet pallet to keep the paint nice and dry I covered the face with about 2 coats and then washed with Citadel Reikland FleshShade.  I covered the face a bit more on the raised areas with the base color. Finishing with a final  highlight of Game Color 72.003 Pale Flesh added to the base color.

Whenever i'm painting skin I make sure to use a wet palette. Last thing you need is the paint starting to dry before you're finished glazing the color on.

(related note: I paint the eyes after the skin. I know a lot of artists prefer to paint them first because they're difficult but with the kolinsky hair brushes I haven't had much issue.)

Here's another example using the yu jing monks. (The casts on the heads where hit or miss. Two came out okay and the others came out poorly.)

HTP: Nomad Guns

Simple gun tutorial on how I paint my Nomad's guns.

1. Coat the gun with Vallejo 70.994 Dark Grey

2. Wash the gun with Vallejo wash 76.517 Dark Grey (ha, theme)

3. Go over the gun again with Vallejo's Dark Grey

4. With a 1:1 ratio mix Vallejo Dark Grey with 72.050 Cold Grey.  You can use strait cold grey on certain spots to make a more extreme highlight.